Rome at Sunrise

We started our second trip to Rome with no plans, just vibes. And honestly, it felt way more magical that way. This time felt less like rushing through a checklist and more like settling into the rhythm of the city - becoming regulars at our local cafe, discovering hidden gems, long walks, and actually stopping to enjoy the musicians in the piazzas - which is exactly what we were craving when we decided to come back for a second time.

Our first visit last year felt hectic. We were constantly trying to make it to the next monument, squeeze into whatever restaurant we could get into, and check everything off the ‘must do list’ everyone is sharing on TikTok.

Seeing the Trevi Fountain up close? Forget about it. By the time we got there, it was packed shoulder to shoulder - and this was during “off season.” We spent most of that trip weaving through crowds and trying not to lose each other rather than actually taking in the beauty around us.

If you love big-city energy and non-stop sightseeing, Rome is probably perfect for you. But if you’re like me and prefer to slow down, savor the moment and experience a place more naturally, keep reading.

Since we were coming off a 13 hour travel day and an intercontinental time change I didn’t pressure myself to ‘make the most of it’ and burn out. We spent the first bit of the trip napping, wandering aimlessly and easing into the city instead.

We stayed near the Parco della Musica which ended up being the perfect neighborhood. There were piazzas in every direction, stunning architecture, river views, and little cafes tucked into side streets. It’s also where we found my favorite cafe of the entire trip - and arguably the best cappuccino I’ve ever had in my life that all future coffees will be compared to. Which is saying a lot as a barista for 10 years that loves tasting coffee everywhere we travel.As far as Italy goes, Roma feels like the city that never sleeps. Thankfully many things stay open through siesta (italian tradition of afternoon rest where businesses close), which is very appreciated when you’re coming from another country and adjusting to normal meal times.

My favorite way to discover food is just by wandering around until I feel the pull to go inside, so I wasn't sure what to expect when the chef told me they served stuffed corners of pizza, but honestly how bad could it be? We got the chicken since high protein snacks are less common to come by here. And OMG - it tasted like all the best parts of thanksgiving dinner, creamy chicken with rosemary in a fluffy crispy sourdough pizza corner - comfort food perfection! We came back so many times during our one week stay.

After a few days of guilt-free relaxation and exploring the surrounding neighborhoods we finally headed to the center of Rome and it ended up being the highlight of our trip. Experiencing Rome before it woke up, before the tours, before the lines, before the city felt like a city at all.

We set our alarms for an hour most people would consider unreasonable, and rented our Lime scooters to ride through the cold dark streets to see a completely different version of Rome. Delivery trucks unloading clanking bottles, the smell of cafes pulling their fresh pastries out of the oven, business owners sweeping in front of shop doors; where the city felt suspended between morning and night.

By the time we reached The Spanish Steps, we had them almost entirely to ourselves. For a few moments there was nothing to do but sit, take photos and appreciate the quiet beauty before the city arrived. As the sky began to brighten, we left the scooters behind and continued on foot toward the Trevi Fountain.

There were maybe thirty people there as the sun came up, enough to remind you where you were but not enough to take away the magic while still having the opportunity to get “the photo,” and experience one of Rome’s most iconic landmarks before the crowds and entrance fee arrived later in the morning. Just as the square started bustling, Cafe Trevi was opening up with outside tables and a gorgeous view of the fountain to enjoy a traditional Italian breakfast. Sitting back and watching the fountain fill up with more tours, tripods and hectic energy makes you feel grateful to be watching with a warm cappuccino instead.

Any basilica you choose is going to be beautiful, and after visiting St. Peters the first year we chose to visit Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore. We weren't prepared for how emotional it would feel. There are moments while traveling when a place is beautiful, and then there are moments when you feel something deeper than beauty. We both had goosebumps and felt tears in our eyes. It wasn’t just the beauty that moved us - it was the presence of God. As the morning went on, more visitors began to arrive. We had enough time to experience much of the basilica in near silence, but there was something equally moving about watching it slowly fill with people being surrounded by the whispers of prayer, church bells and morning light. We shared a moment of prayer together before continuing on.

As we stepped outside, the entire city was in the sunlight, and we continued towards one of Rome’s most recognizable landmarks. The Colosseum is one of those landmarks that somehow looks impressive from every angle, but our favorite view wasn’t from inside with the sea of people.

We wandered through the park above it and found ourselves looking down at the ancient stone gleaming in the morning light. What I remember most though, wasn’t the architecture. It was returning back after dark with the lights glowing from inside to find ourselves suddenly immersed in a small group of strangers singing and dancing along to Sarà Perché Ti Amo. We didn’t know this happened regularly and found ourselves there by surprise.

A memory I’ll never forget.

Life in San Lucido